In every city I visit in Europe I go see the Jewish Quarter. In Barcelona, it’s tiny, hidden deep inside The Gothic Quarter. In 1391, a riot killed about 1,000 residents. In 1401 they were expelled completely. The first night I arrived, a friend took us strolling through the narrow medieval streets. Eduardo Hojman, who is originally from Argentina, lived in a stone house in the the Call (the Spanish name for the Jewish quarter) that was rumored to be the oldest house in all of Barcelona. The Irish novelist Colm Toibin lived in the same house, and according to Hojman, Toibin called the oldest house claim bullshit. What interested me was that a synagogue exists in the catacombs beneath the house. The synagogue was built on Roman ruins, which have been excavated and covered in glass floors.